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Austria, Vienna – Final museum madness part 2. Farewell Vienna

After enjoying the Egon Schiele exhibit I went upstairs at the Leopold for a special exhibition of the art owned by Heidi Horten. Who? You might say. Well Heidi is a billionaire following her marriage to the much older Herr Horten who owned one of the biggest department stores in Austria. When he died she inherited his wealth – she is a billionaire – and invested some of the money into an impressive art collection some of which was on show at the Leopold. As you will see from the artists below she had a fair bit of cash to spend and I think acquired a lot of the art in one go from London auctioneers.

A selection of Chagall, Magritte, Matisse and Freud.

And then a sprinkling of Picasso’s, Warhol and Nara

One of the great things about my visits to Germany and Austria has been the access to more artists from this part of the world. Below is Marc (the deer)| and then a few years later Roy Lichtenstein does a homage to his work in his own style. Below are Pechstein and Jawlensky – I love these works

Next stop – Amsterdam.

Germany, Bavaria – Of castles and mad Kings and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang!

As a child I listened in fascination as my Bavarian mother told me stories about “Mad” King Ludwig and we visited the castles back then too. Decided to was time to go again many years later and revisit the magic place that enchanted Disney so much that he copied it for his theme park and for those of us of a certain age it will forever be the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Castle (if you’ve no idea of what that is watch the movie – a family classic).

Anyway, King Ludwig became king suddenly aged 18 and was not very interested in the job. His heroes were the knights and ladies of the medieval times and in particular he loved stories about King Louis IV (the sun king) to whom he dedicated Neueschwanstein. What he really seemed to like about the French king was his “divine right” to rule (and wouldn’t we all like some of that sometimes?) but by the time he became King those days were well over and pesky ministers kept interfering in state matters – so he decided to ignore being king and build fantasy castles instead while cultivating his love of music – he was a close friend of Richard Wagner.

Why”mad”? He was declared unfit to rule when he was 40 (those pesky ministers again) and sent to live permanently in an asylum nearby. One day he and his psychiatrist went for a walk and never returned. Both were found dead in the lake. But no-one knows what happened? A drowning accident? A fight? A murder? – You decide as the descendants from the family will not allow his body to be exhumed which would of course most easily prove how he died (some say he was shot). I suppose the mystery is part of the myth.

He built 3 castles in his life and spent most of his time in Linderhof. By the time Neueschwanstein was inhabitable he only get to spend 170 days there. It is also only partially completed – an excellent multi visual show at the end of the tour shows how it would have looked if all the plans had been completed.

Footnote: before he went into the asylum the one thing he asked was that if he should die that his castles should be pulled down and reduced to rabble. He was such a recluse that he didn’t want anyone else in his home.

All I can say is he must be spinning in his grave if he can see how many people go through them every day in five minute intervals! Maybe he was not mad, just ahead of his time and creative? I like to think so…..

And here they are:

This one is Linderhof – a bijou number but very sumptious inside (no photos allowed which is a big shame but you can check the web)

And here is the famous Neueschwanstein

And finally Hoheschwangau which his Dad (King Matz II) built nearby and where he grew up.

Spain, Bilbao – Museo de Bellas Artes and pinxtos tasting

Obviously everyone visits the Guggenheim in Bilbao (and of course I did too) but it is worth taking time to see the Museo de Bellas Artes too. It has a permanent collection including some big names but also houses a great selection of more modern Spanish art. I liked the variety it offers (it is celebrating 110 years of existence this year so there is a retrospective of some of their favourite pieces.

The picture on the left is a Rembrandt on loan from the Dulwich Gallery – it is stunning and unusual to see a portrait of a young female from him. She seems to be jumping out of the picture. On the right is the moustachioed Philip of Spain by Velasquez. I am particularly fond of the Zuloaga painting of the Countess Matthieu de Noailles – bottom right – she looks like a lady who knew her own mind even back in the mid 19th century and apparently she was a trendsetter, writer and contributed to society in many ways.

My favourite in this group is the young girl with the carnation in her mouth – lovely soft colours – by Guiard. Of course the Murillo of St Peter in Tears is pretty good too!

And now on to modern contributions including a huge room with a video exhibit called the infinite garden – it runs for 75 minutes and I happily sat in it for 20 minutes – wish I had had more time. The Spectator by Cronica is also fun – made of paper mache.

And finally I went on a pinxtos tour (pinxtos is roughly the Basque equivalent of tapas but both parts of Spain insist that what they make is very different to the other!). I just know they taste delicious.

The Caribbean- St Thomas and St Maarten/Martin

First two days at sea had two stops. The first to St Thomas was unexpected as we were meant to be in St Croix! High waves meant access to St Croix was not possible and hence the re-routing.

Sadly a lot of the islands were very badly damaged during Irma and in some case also Maria. Also cruise terminals in this part of the work tend to be very full of jewellery shops – and no I haven’t bought anything. You can have too much of a good thing.

I did find a synagogue in St Thomas which I think was the nicest building I saw. Note special parking for the rabbi below. And the impressive iguana near the docks who greeted us on arrival.

St Thomas

Next day we visited St Maarten/Martin part owned by the Dutch and part by the French. Most ships dock on the Dutch side but the French side (a 15 minutes taxi ride from the cruise terminal) is prettier although far more badly impacted by the hurricane with many shops and restaurants yet to re-open. I hope it picks up again as it has charm.

Australia, Melbourne- NGV triumphs again with its new Triennial – who needs Venice?


So lucky to get a sneak peak at the brand new NGV Triennial . It is superb. All the fashion designs of Guo Pei are breathtaking – and it is the first time she has shown all her work in one place.

And I loved the interactive Yayoi Kusama- the dot artist that some of you will know I’m somewhat obsessed with. The display is a complete apartment with flower stickers that each visitor can stick wherever they like (mine’s on the kettle as I couldn’t find a champagne bottle!). By the end of the exhibit in a few months’ time,it will be covered in flowers so everyone will have completed their own Kusama experience. Brilliant idea.

Then there is the room of human giant skulls – confronting when you come across it unexpectedly upstairs.

Can’t wait to go back and see it again — and it’s free!

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Italy, Milan

Long time since I was in Milan. Had forgotten how stylish everyone looks here. No- one would walk through the city in shorts, or gym wear or track suits or cropped tops. They do chic casual very well – including the men. I like that as I’m not a big fan of over casual except on the beach! (Ok – I’m showing my age!)

Always good to visit the Duomo. This time I went up to the roof which was spectacular. I took the lift option but you still have to climb

loads of stairs at what you think is the top just less than if you climbed from the bottom – worth it though as you see a completely different perspective.

The Duomo from the grand. Magnificent is not an exaggeration.

Duomo from the roof

And I know I’ve gone on about ceilings in Italy but they also do good doors!

Last day in Italy tomorrow and summary of my most (and least – and there are not many) liked aspects of the country.