It’s been a busy few days with catch ups with old friends and lots more to see and do in London.
First stop was coffee with Fiona at the wonderful new Brasserie of Light – Selfridges are always reinventing themselves and much of the ground and basement floors have also been re-done – they seem to have no Brexit worries:)
Selfridges and the Brasserie of Light – even the toilets are fab!
Then I met with Sue at the Sky Garden followed by lunch at Searcy’s in the Gherkin. As usual it was rainy but somehow the City of London always looks good in the rain (just as well considering London weather) and I love that the Sky Garden is free and a public space (but you do need to book tickets online in advance).
Sue in the Sky Garden
City of London from on high
After lunch Sue and I headed off to the Victoria and Albert Museum to see the Tim Walker exhibit with a stop at the Mary Quant homage.
Quant items of fashion plus having her hair cut by Vidal Sassoon and a couple of PVC raincoats – so trendy
Tim Walker is a unique photographer – especially famous for fashion and celebrity photos and his bright colours. For part of this exhibit he also took inspiration from some pieces in the museum and then did his own thing – the exhibition is called Wonderful Things. Well worth a visit.
Tim Walker likes to colour in his animals and he is very partial to flowers
Tim Walker photographs Grayson Perry and Beth Ditto in his own unique way letting them be equally as unique
Humans and hollyhocks combine seamlessly and Tilda Swindon looks amazing
Some friends of mine – John and Jenny – told me about “Britain’s Sistine Chapel” in Greenwich. I was a bit stunned as I had never heard of the Painted Hall which has recently been restored and reopened. Here is what greets you as you walk in:
This building which is part of the Royal Naval college in Greenwich is awesome and the paintings mostly by John Thornhill are a fascinating display of Britain’s naval strength, the science of the day and the security of the monarchy following the Act of Succession ensuring no more arguments about Catholic or Protestant monarchs! A lot of these buildings within the Royal Naval college buildings were built to house and take care of retired seaman who had served their country in their youth.
External vies of the Naval College buildings at Greenwich – a few are now parts of a classical musical school and you can hear lots of practising going on as you wander about – these are people who know how to play!
Some ceiling scenes including William and Mary and King George 1 plus the British naval might
Finally an excellent three hour walking tour run by Context Travel – an organisation whose tour guides are often art historians and who aim their tours to small groups (we had just four) who want to learn stuff. This is just my kind of thing and as they are in other cities too I am sure I will be using them again. This program was called Crash Course British Museum and gave a really good walk through a themed approach to some of the 8 million artifacts held by the BM!
The grandeur of the British Museum and the infamous Elgin Margins from the Parthenon!
The Old Library and the Grecian style classic statue of a man throwing a discus
And to sign off my favourite quote of the last week from C S Lewis (of Chronicles of Narnia fame) and seen at the Tim Walker exhibit
I am still getting out and about while in London and last weekend my friend Lorna organised a weekend in Oxford/Blenheim.
First stop was the Bodleian Library – one of only a handful of libraries that are copyright libraries – meaning that a copy of every book published in the UK MUST be sent there. Given they are now at a 1000 books a week being published here in the UK it is not surprising that they have had to expand their premises to other locations in Oxford but also several miles of underground space in Swindon to store all of these.
Only current Oxford students (and the odd expert who can prove they really need to) can look at the books in this library and no-one can take them out. All a bit elitist if you ask me but of course but Oxford can be like that and at least they are slowly digitising all the old books (this roots of this library started in the 1300s) so that the rest of the world can access them too. No pics allowed inside which was a shame as it is all rather splendid.
Bodleian library and surrounding colleges
The Divinity Room at the Bodleian and the Bridge of Sighs
After lunch we headed over to the Ashmolean Museum for a wonderful exhibit on food and Pompei. Basically because of the carbonisation caused by the volcano they have been able to accurately identify the Roman diet of the time and this exhibit focussed on Stuart, frescos and real examples of what and how they ate. Strangely mesmerising.
Extracts from Pompei. They used to rear door mice in the jar (this mouse is fake) but the jar isn’t.
The resin lady of Oplontis – perfectly preserved at the time of her death and holding both gold bangles but also cheap beads – maybe given to her as a gift by a child and had sentimental value? The mosaic skeleton was to remind the eaters that however much they ate they would all end up looking like this:)
On Sunday morning we stopped by the Oxford Botanical Gardens which were charming and looking lovely even though the main flowering season is long gone.
In the Botanical Garden which are just at the edge of town so very accessible
Sunday afternoon was my first trip to Blenheim Palace – the place Winston Churchill was born – but which he didn’t inherit as he was not in line to do so. This is an impressive “pile” as they say but what made the visit great for me was the addition of a temporary artist in residence – Maurizio Cattelan – who is known for his satirical sculptures including the one of the solid gold toilet which had been installed for use as part of this exhibition but was then stolen three days later. He is irreverent and questioning of the status quo so I admire the people who allowed him to include his work here – it was very cool – but some of the more traditional little old ladies and gentlemen who were visiting were clearly a bit horrified.
Lorna and I both thinking we own Blenheim!
Cattelan works sprinkled amid all the old stuff
The beautiful Consuelo Vanderbilt who was forced to marry into the Churchill family by her mother – and who was welcomed only because she brought in lots of money that could be used for upkeep of Blenheim – does this sound like Downton or what?
More of crazy Cattelan and what remains of the gold toiletO:(
A little boy kneeling from the back? An evil dictator begging for forgiveness on the right?
And on Monday I spent the day in Windsor with a friend from my last cruise Sian. She lives there and kindly agreed to spend the day visiting the castle and having lunch. We had an excellent time and this is another very impressive British castle with amazing artworks inside – but no photos allowed.
External views of Windsor Castle, plus the Queen’s apartments – bottom left and a view over the countryside of Eton College
And one more to finish off with – a visit to the Dulwich Picture Gallery with Marjory to see the Rembrandt and Light Exhibit. Dulwich is a leafy area of SE London that most people have never heard of. And the gallery in it is equally unknown but it shouldn’t be because it is delightful and a nicely manageable size. This exhibit was lit in conjunction with a well known cinematographer so that the light effects that Rembrandt was so good at – whether external, natural, internal or candlelight can be shown off to best effect. Well worth a visit.
If you are visiting or living in London I definitely recommend a stop at the magnificent Gormley exhibit at the Royal Academy. Having seen Another Place in Crosby last week I was especially excited to meet up with my mate Barbara and see what the RA had in store for us. We were not disappointed.
Just walking through the courtyard to the building gives you a thrill
Then into the first rooms of sculptures
There were about 20 different variations of metal planks all depicting a male in different positions – so clever
From tiny pip to fully mature apple on one side and a sliced bread with teeth marks tracing on the other
A lot of the pieces allow for full interaction – this one you can walk around or through
Getting lost and trying not to trip up inside the metal movable spirals
The iconic steel Gormley male figures were in abundance
And they are always available for a photo op
These don’t look as much like men when you see them with the naked eye but you can really see the curves in a photo. One of these is not a Gormley!
Tons of steel hanging from what looks like a glass ceiling but has somehow been reinforced.
This piece was designed by Gormley especially for this room at the RA
The final rooms had an enormous hanging metal sphere and another one filled with mud, stones and water – in the RA!!!
Flooded room in the RA was quite a shock!
As we headed out we visited one of the other rooms which had an array of coloured window displays plus a massive table filled with biscuits that you could interact with – my edible masterpiece is below.
The baby is in the courtyard outside the RA and is of course by Gormley!
A fab exhibit and we finished our day by crossing the road to Fortnum and Mason for afternoon tea – although I seemed to have stumbled into the Xmas department (yes again – grrr) en route – not so happy then but much happier after tea:)
Just 2 hours and 15 minutes out of Euston and you are in Liverpool – not very far but a world away from London. Everyone I know who has been told me I would love it here – and they were right. My first visit ever was lots of fun.
First afternoon I headed down to the well renovated docks – a short walk from the town centre – which is no a mixture of museums, cafes, restaurants, shops and areas to stroll by the water. It is also where you can pick up ferries – but I decided against that given limited time and there does not appear to be much on the other side?
So first stop , after a walk through Cavern Quarter in town, was to get a dose of Beatles at the Excellent Beatles Story at Albert Dock. Everything you ever wanted to know was well organised and explained with headphones included.
The Cavern Quarter including the entrance to the original Cavern and a wonderful statue of Cilla Black. Every bar down, including the Cavern a few doors down, here plays music sets all day long. And I succumbed to a Beatles hoodie.
The impressively revitalised docks of Liverpool
Statues of Billy Fury, the Beatles and the majestic “Three Graces” at Pier Head – the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard HQ and the Port of Liverpool Building.
Close by in the Dock area is the excellent International Museum of Slavery which shares its home with the maritime museum. While there is not a lot to photograph it is a great place to spend a couple of hours to understand the horror of slavery both in the past and sadly also in the present. Liverpool was a key port during the slave trade and it is impressive that they are willing to take ownership for those wrongs and educate people now so that it never happens again. I am not sure all those involved in the slave trade are quite as open on this topic.
A visit to the Tate Liverpool also by the Docks was next – like the Tate Modern it focuses on contemporary art and I was glad to be able to see the Keith Haring exhibit which I had just missed on my visit to Melbourne earlier this year. I also got the pink triangle t shirt!
Keith Haring artworks
A Matisse from the permanent collection plus some more Kusama dots of light – because I love her!
The British Music Experience – which moved to Liverpool from London was probably my biggest disappointment. Somehow it just didn’t work very well (and of course I have been spoiled by the superlative Cleveland Rock and Roll Hall of Fame which is super fab. I amused myself of checking out “my era” and the album covers and clothes I remember well.
Some great memories at the BME
Back to the Beatles. On the advice of my friend Sylvie, I had pre-booked the National Trust’s tour to the homes where John Lennon and Paul McCartney grew up. Only this tour lets you inside both houses with two excellent guides who take you through what it was like growing up in these houses and their early years and you get to see the rooms where many well known early tunes were written. Lots of great photos inside taken my Paul’s brother Mike and all sorts of stories too. Both of them lost a parent when they were young. It was very cool and interesting – has to be pre-booked online. Lasted 2.5 hours.
Again on the advice of my friend Ann this time I took the Mersey Metro to Port Sunlight about 20 minutes away. This is where what is now known as Unilever started his empire but what makes him and this place so interesting is that he didn’t just build a soap factory but he also built an entire village, school, church, pub, leisure centre etc for his workers and as long as they retired with the company they could stay in their houses. He also introduced old age pensions and medical cover and allowed women to work (but only if they were single or widowed:) – it was the late 1800s! Beautiful place where people still live and work at the factory and locally. Everyone from the royal family at the time and beyond came to visit this experiment!
Lord Lever understood the power of advertising – both locally and globally. Love the fancy gear they ladies are wearing to do the washing!
The grounds and some of the houses in Port Sunlight
All the houses are different in design and so are the front door colours. Individuality was encouraged.
The Lever soap factory and people working in it today
Also good to stop by at the Lady Lever art gallery – also funded by him. Great art collection.
Lady Lever Gallery at Port Sunlight
Now that I had figured out the Mersey Metro system I decided to get good use out of my GBP 5.30 unlimited day pass and headed out to Crosby to see Another Place by Anthony Gormley on 1.5 miles of fabulous beach. I’d been advised to check to tides so that I could see all the 100 life size male nudes that are scattered at various points (some disappear as the tide comes in which would be very Reggie Perrin to see). It is well worth visiting – walking along the beach was lovely as it was a warm day and these pieces are very thought provoking. This was his first (and was meant to be temporary) large installation of nude men – there are a few different ones around the world now.
A visit to a local theatre is always a must whenever I can make it happen so was pleased to visit the Liverpool Empire theatre (holds 2500 people) to see the Motown Story – seen it before; liked it then, liked it now.
Final art gallery visit was to the Walker Gallery (Liverpool is pretty darned good for art and culture). Excellent and broad collection of masters and also a lot of pre-raphaelite which I am quite fond of – so here we go.
Rembrandt and Cranach to name a couple of the famous names!
Love all this whimsy and color
Also the famous “When did you last see your Father painting is here”
So yes I crammed a lot into my 3.5 days here but still had plenty of time to enjoy what I visited. Highly recommended that you visit Liverpool for something different.
An unexpected visit to Bristol meant that my friends Sylvie, Andrew and I signed up for a Banksy and other street art tour – Banksy comes from Bristol and it is a city of significant street art. From a period when the local council constantly painted over street art to one that encourages street art festivals – this city has an excellent selection of non commissioned and commissioned street art. This was a great 3 hour tour and a good way to see the city too.
Banksy’s Well Hung and the Mild Mild West (reference to Bristol) and the latest from JPS
Sadly Coat of Arms (gets it??) and the flowers are due to come down soon due to demolition plans
Robin Banks (get it?) uses his well known motif “The Vandal” – a badly behaved banker.
Stick Man manages to make very simple images show pathos
Sesk always paints a local person he meets. The tiger/dragon thing looks like he is scratching the passers by!
Also with Sylvie and Andrew we planned a visit to Perry Green (near Bishops Stortford) – the home and grounds of the sculptor Henry Moore. The house tour was excellent and really gives insight into the man and his art – no photos allowed. The grounds house many of his works and they look even better when you get weather like we did.
Reclining figures – large on the hill, smaller on the grounds and Sylvie and I trying to blend into the art
Double Oval, Family Group, Goslar Warrior and Two piece reclining figure
My friend Christine celebrated her big birthday earlier this year so we had a belated super meal at Michelin starred The Clove House in the old Shoreditch Town Hall. Every course – and the meal took us about 4.5 hours to eat – was delicious. We enjoyed the wine pairings too.
Food to drool over
I don’t care what anyone says – I love a bit of foam!
A new exhibit of William Blake’s work has just opened at the Tate. I visited there with one of my cruise buddies – Chris. Blake was rather a pompous man who had high views of his own art compared to others – he was not therefore the most popular of people. He worked closely with his wife and she is featured heavily in this exhibition as she is thought to have coloured in some of this book illustrations.
Book illustrations including an original of the Tyger Tyger burning bright poem
A Midsummer Night’s Dream and the whole of the Canterbury Tales pilgrims
Everything from Isaac Newton to Pilgrim’s Progress to the Name of the Beast is 666!
The Ancient of Times – maybe his most famous piece
And finally a lovely day at Pembroke Lodge in Richmond Park where we were celebrating Lorna’s birthday. We found the Ian Dury chair – Reasons to be Cheerful – just down from Harry’s Mound (a place where there is a gap in the trees and a telescope enabling you to clearly see the whole of St Paul’s cathedral – which is quite a distance away). The chair has a bar code so you can immediately listen to some Dury classics – which we did.
Hit me with your Rhythm Stick; it’s nice to be a lunatic – hit me, hit me, hit me – one for my Brit generation:)
Skip this if you are not even slightly into Harry Potter but if you are here are some experiences I had at Warner Brothers – The Making of Harry Potter near Watford – an easy day trip for anyone in or visiting London (trains to Watford Junction and then 10 minutes on the HP bus for GBP3 to the Studio.)
I visited with my friend Christine who knows everything about the Harry Potter books, movies and memorabilia – she even has her morning alarm set to hear Stephen Fry reading from somewhere in the Harry Potter books (for the record I wake up to the Four Tops – baby I need your loving!).
Anyway this blog is especially for Christine and also Ella in Melbourne who I know is a huge fan and just has to visit this place.
On arrival you are greeted by newspaper cuttings and large signage so you know you are in the right place. Take three hours as your minimum for looking around – it is huge and fascinating. One guide told us she had been 28 times before becoming a guide and the first time she spend 7 hours here – and honestly that would be easy to do as there is so much to see and take in. This place is a homage to the movies and the creativity and love with which they were made over 10 years.
The external entrance area to the studios
Some of the HP movie posters
The Great Hall
Wands anyone? Christine has 32 – now 33 as she bought Draco Malfoy’s while we were there. Also set items from the Yule Ball
Potions Classroom, Dumbledore’s office, the cauldron and more
The Quidditch, Tom Riddle’s grave, the deathly hallows (I think?) and the fabulous Ford Anglia
The train to Hogwarts and me making attempting to crash through Platform 93/4. The lovely purple Knight Bus.
Gringotts Bank in all its glory. I think JKR does not like banks – they are staffed by miserable goblins and then the bank is totally destroyed!
Some of the gruesome goblin latex faces
The treasure in the bank vaults and the total destruction of Gringotts
Diagon Alley – they looked for somewhere to use but decided they could only build something to match the imagination of this place as described in the books
The giant model of Hogwarts
An amazing day out and then followed the next day by a visit to MinaLima in Soho. An incredible four storey narrow building with everything Harry Potter but things like limited editions of book prints, spells, wallpaper etc. It is an amazing place to walk around whether you are a fan or not and it was doing a roaring trade too (Christine you helped with their takings on that day) – and there was not one child there – indeed hardly anyone under 40! Def worth a stop.
Christine outside MinaLima – a place I had to drag her out of as I wanted my lunch!
Given this is my home town I tend to blog less when I’m over here and only cover things I’ve not seen before – so here’s a pot pourri or some more off the beaten track places I’ve been to in the last ten days.
Firstly some black and white pics of the City of London and even on a gray day the architecture and splendour shine through.
St Paul’s from the Southbank
Golden Hinde, Southwark Cathedral and the Globe Theatre
The Wobbly (Millenium Bridge) and Remains of Winchester Palace
The Walkie Talkie building and the Monument
Then off to Brixton for an excellent David Bowie Musical walking tour. You walk around spots where he was brought up and Nick plays Bowie songs in full along the way as you stop by iconic places such as the Ritzy Cinema and the Brixton Academy.
David Bowie musical walking tour in Brixton
As a big Ottolenghi fan I was excited to visit his newest restaurant Rovi with my friend Lorna to celebrate her birthday – as ever the man is a genius! Select a number of the small dishes to share – that way you get to taste more of his inventiveness. Lobster roll and ribs were my favourites.
Rovi in Fitzrovia
A trip to the Tate Modern is always worth it as the building is a design marvel. I visited the Olafur Elliasson exhibit – it was futuristic and cool. Finishing soon I think.
And then I finally got to see Hamilton – it was worth waiting four years for – if you can get a ticket GO.
Hamilton at the Victoria Palace Theatre
And a highlight was visiting Chihuly Nights at Kew Gardens with my friend Peter I am a massive fan of this glass artist and the installations all through the park are wonderful. Not sure my photos do it justice but did my best. Am going back to see it during the day too. A must see.