Tag Archives: Alley of the Blind Donkey

Belgium – Mechelen, Lier and Bruges

One of the things I enjoy about staying in one area for a couple of weeks is having the time to visit the lesser known towns not just the obvious places. One of those was Mechelen – about 45 minutes by train from Antwerp. This town dates back to 1473 and has a traditional town square and a wondrous cathedral (St Rombouts). Once again a summer festival was about to start so they were getting the square set up for that – they do make the most of summer here.

The streets and square of Mechelen with St Rombouts Cathedral

The best bit was taking a cruise on the River Dilje through the town – no crowds – only six of us on the boat and within 5 minutes we were drifting quietly past some lovely apartments and converted warehouses and I could spend time deciding which one I would pick if I was buying one (the Art Deco style white one with the huge windows I expect!)

We also passed the three colorful houses known as “Houses of the Little Devils” as they are adorned with carved demons. Perfect day.

Cruising the River Dilje and the Houses of the Little Devils

The still waters of the River Dilje in Mechelen

Of course I had to visit Bruges (or Brugge as the Flemish speakers would call it). It takes about 90 minutes by train from Antwerp.

Walking into town from the station I stopped off at the newly renovated Gruuthusemuseum which has been newly renovated.This used to be a medieval mansion owned by a very rich brewer in the 15th century and all the floors (very creaky wooden ones) have survived intact. As you walk through you get to see a mix of art, tapestries, lace, sculpture and the private entry to the passage direct into the neighboring church. They have done an excellent job of this restoration and it was thankfully not busy at 10 am.

Exteriors of the Gruuthusemuseum and attached church

Bust of Charles V, stained glass windows, tapestry and inlaid wooden trinket holder inside The Gruuthusemuseum

The chapel with secret passageway into the church, local lace and crockery

Yes the Centre of Bruges is pretty but it is teeming with tourists – I visited on a Thursday and had to work hard to take these photos without millions of other people in them! I liked the town and can understand why it has become so popular but like Venice and Florence I think it would be better to visit outside of the summer season.

Main square in Bruges and waterways everywhere

Beautiful buildings along the waterways at every turn plus the narrow Alley of the blind Donkey

More love of comics and the Wall of Beer – which is very long indeed – this is just a snippet

Talking of preferred smaller towns, I jumped on the train once again for just 20 minutes to visit neighboring Lier. I suppose it could be argued that this is a suburb of Antwerp but it is definitely a town in its own right – where there are virtually no tourists – just locals enjoying the summer time with a few strong beers!

The main square in Lier plus examples of some of the houses when you head down a side street

Picture perfect and quiet waterways and lanes in Lier

Loved the hand carved wooden sign posts too.

The Zimmertoren – with its beautiful clock that tells the time, the zodiac, the stars, and probably makes a beer as well!

So in summary – it was the smaller towns in Belgium that I enjoyed the most – especially at this time of year. If you find yourself in this part of the world make sure to visit some of them.